How to Lay Laminate Flooring
You don’t need to be a flooring expert to lay laminate these days. Most modern boards simply click together, with no glue or nails needed. Still, a little preparation goes a long way, so it helps to know how to lay laminate flooring before you start.
Important: This is a general guide for installing click-lock laminate flooring. Always follow the installation instructions supplied with your specific flooring. Requirements for expansion gaps, acclimatisation time and installation methods can vary between products, so the manufacturer's instructions should be considered.
Is Laminate Flooring Suitable for DIY Installation?
Laminate is laid over the subfloor rather than fixed straight onto it. That means the condition of the subfloor matters before you begin. The boards need to be cut right to fit around pipes and door frames. If the floor underneath is damp, uneven or damaged, get a professional to inspect it.
What Do You Need Before Opening the Flooring Packs?
You need to get some things sorted before laying your flooring. Here’s a checklist:
- Laminate flooring
- Suitable underlay
- Moisture barrier, where required
- Spacers
- Tape measure and pencil
- Straight edge or square
- Fine-toothed saw or laminate cutter
- Tapping block
- Pull bar
- Rubber mallet
- Drill and suitable hole saws for pipework
- Safety glasses and other appropriate PPE
Don’t open the pack immediately before you ensure you have the ideal flooring, shade, and batch. Buy in bulk to have spare boards for replacements during the project.
How Much Flooring Do You Need and Which Direction Should It Run?
Now that you know how to install laminate flooring, measure the area.
Multiply the length and width of the room for the area in square metres.
Divide irregular rooms into smaller rectangles and add the areas together.
Plan where your first and last boards will fall to avoid a final narrow strip.
You will need approximately 10% extra flooring for cuts and waste. If the room has an awkward cut, you can leave even up to 15% extra flooring. In terms of direction, run the boards towards the main source of light in the room. The room will feel proportionate if the boards run along the length.
Is Your Subfloor Suitable for Laminate Flooring?
Your subfloor should be flat, stable, clean, dry, and level. Check the flatness of your subfloor with a long straightedge. Most click-lock laminate is installed as a floating floor although others may require full surface gluing.
To fit laminate flooring on concrete floors, look for cracks and dampness. If the floorboards are timber, replace structurally weak boards. Walk around the floor and remove squeaking or moving boards. If your subfloor consists of tiles, check grout lines and height differences.
Which Underlay and Moisture Protection Do You Need?
If the flooring already has built-in underlay, do not add another layer. If the underlay is too soft, it will move and damage the click joints. Concrete, screed and tiled subfloors need a separate DPM or underlay with an integrated moisture barrier. Lay underlay edge to edge without overlapping the pieces and tape the joins.
How to Laminate Flooring Step by Step
Once the room and materials are ready, the installation can begin.
1. Acclimatise and inspect the flooring
Keep the unopened packs in the room where they will be installed and check the boards for visible damage. Also look for colour variations and defects.
2. Prepare and check the subfloor
Make sure the subfloor is clean, dry, sound and sufficiently level. Repair damaged areas and remove any debris that could affect the finished floor.
3. Measure and plan the layout
Measure the room and plan the first and last rows before cutting the boards. Avoid leaving very narrow strips at either wall.
4. Install the DPM and underlay
Where required, lay a DPM over the subfloor before installing the underlay. Lay underlay pieces edge to edge rather than overlapping them.
5. Fit the first row
Use spacers around the walls to create an expansion gap of at least 8 - 10mm. Connect the first boards using the click-lock method, keeping the row straight.
6. Cut the final board in each row
Measure the remaining space carefully, then cut the final board to fit. Keep the offcut, as it helps start the next row if it meets the minimum length requirements.
7. Stagger the joints in following rows
The end joints of each new row must not line up with those in the previous row. The adjacent ones need an offset of around 200–300 mm, depending on the product.
8. Fit the last row
A pull bar can help draw the final boards into position where there is not enough room to use the normal click-lock method.
9. Remove the spacers and finish the edges
Once all the boards are fitted, remove the spacers. Fit skirting boards or scotia to cover the expansion gap, fixing them to the existing structure rather than the laminate.
How Do You Fit Laminate Around Doors, Pipes and Fixed Units?
Undercut door frames so the laminate can slide underneath them. If you are confused about how to lay laminate flooring around radiators, drill a hole that allows for movement around the pipes.
Conceal the cut with a pipe collar later. The laminate should not get trapped under kitchen cabinets or islands. Make sure it is free to move by making a cardboard template first and then adjusting it around the unit.
What Should You Check Before Finishing and What Could Go Wrong?
Walk across the floor and look for movements, gaps, and damage. Expansion gaps should not be blocked by adhesive, debris, or fixed units. Fit skirting or flooring trim to cover expansion gaps. Some things to look out for are:
Boards are separating
The click joints may not be fully engaged or the expansion gaps may be blocked.
The floor is bouncing
Your subfloor may be uneven or the underlay may not be supporting the laminate enough.
Boards are lifting
This is due to insufficient expansion space or a fixed object trapping the floor.
The floor is squeaking
This mostly happens when there is movement in the subfloor or loose boards. Find the source and don’t add more underlay.
Boards are damaged during installation
This is very common so buy material in bulk and replace damaged boards as you go.
FAQs
How do I fit laminate flooring?
Prepare the subfloor, lay the correct DPM and underlay, then click the laminate boards together while maintaining the required expansion gap. Plan your rows and stagger the joints so you can cut the boards to fit around edges and fixed objects.
How long should laminate acclimatise?
Commonly, around 48 hours or as per the product’s conditions and room climate.
What expansion gap is required?
Leave at least 8 - 10mm gaps for the laminates to expand and move. This varies as per the product and room layout, so measure accurately. It should continue around the complete room perimeter including door frames, thresholds, and radiator pipes. Large rooms need transition or expansion profiles.
Can laminate be laid over concrete, tiles or floorboards?
Yes, concrete and screed may require suitable moisture protection, while timber floors may need loose or damaged boards repaired first.
Can laminate be laid over existing carpet or floating flooring?
Normally, no. Carpet and carpet underlay should be removed, as they may provide too much movement and prevent the laminate from being properly supported. Existing floating flooring should also normally be removed before installing new laminate.
Can laminate be used with underfloor heating?
This varies as per the board used. Check the flooring and underlay for the heating system to follow the right temperature limit.
Can laminate be installed on stairs?
Stair profiles and methods are needed for stair installation. Use a manufacturer approved stair installation system and stair nosings.
How soon can you walk on the finished floor?
A floating click-lock laminate floor can normally be walked on immediately after installation. However, if adhesives, sealants or other products have been used, allow them to cure.
Why is laminate lifting, separating, bouncing or squeaking?
Your underlay may be unsuitable or your subfloor may be uneven. You may not have left enough expansion gaps or your joints may not have connected properly. Check the cause instead of replacing the board.
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